A fashion influencer on TikTok posted a white woman in a blouse, a long draping skirt and a long shawl-like scarf. She then asked, “What are we classifying this wedding guest vibe as, because I’m literally so obsessed with it. Scandinavian wedding guest? I don’t know, but it’s very European.”
As of recently, quite a few popular fashion brands have gotten into hot water for their use and sale of certain clothing items. Why? Despite gaining traction on platforms like TikTok through the title of “Scandinavian” clothing, items such as a new Reformation blouse and skirt set, an Oh Polly gown and H&M’s “long camisole” and trouser set very evidently take inspiration from South Asian culture and fashion. The conversation surrounding cultural appropriation versus cultural appreciation has since been revived online. Is the broader fashion world really giving credit where credit is due?
The Controversy
The clothes that brands like Reformation, Oh Polly, Princess Polly, Peppermayo, etc. have been selling and popularizing under the guise of a European trend have caused several South Asian individuals across the internet to bring their concerns to light. The “Scandinavian scarf” is and has been worn as what has traditionally been the “dupatta” and the “long camisole and trousers” set is evidently a “salwaar kameez.”
Giving credit to the appropriate sources is important, yes, but there’s a more specific reason that South Asian culture being “rebranded” has caused outrage. South Asian culture, practices and everything that comes with it, have long since been a point of contention in western spheres. The negative perception of South Asian clothing in the west has caused people from said cultures to assimilate to the west; when subjected to prejudice based on culture, the easiest way to not be targeted is to conform.
“Wearing a ‘lehenga’ or ‘dupatta’ … was never cool or fashionable or exotic or ethnic. It was just ‘weird,’ ‘too ethnic’ or even seen as ‘uncivilized.'” says TikTok user @shanzehmichelle_ in a video made about the topic. “Now those same styles are being worn on runways, worn by influencers, celebrated on white bodies … being rebranded as avant-garde or ‘Scandinavian’ or ‘effortlessly chic’ without even a singular nod to where it came from.”
The conversation surrounding this topic seems to be less about permission and more about palatability. Since these practices have been seen negatively on South Asian people since nearly colonial times, popularizing them has to be done by brands in such a way that appeals to the western masses.
The Clothes
With that being said, where is this credit due?
The “dupatta” is a shawl-like piece of fabric worn by women over their shoulders, arms or heads in the Indian subcontinent as an accessory or a “binding piece” on several broaded garment sets. It’s worn with the “lehenga” or “ghagra/chaniya choli” which is a three-piece outfit made up of an embroidered skirt, a blouse and a “dupatta.” It’s also worn with the “salwaar kameez,” another three-piece set made of trousers, a long top and a “dupatta.” This piece can have delicately embroidered floral patterns, modern designs or tie-dye patterns and can be made of velvet or silk or cotton.
With the popularization of the Coachella music festival, the “boho-chic” style was also subsequently brought to light. What a lot of influencers, celebrities and those who keep up with them have failed to realize is the level of appropriation that comes with this fashion. Under the guise of the “boho-chic” label, Coachella-goers tend to appropriate both Native American and South Asian cultures.
For example, the “bindi” is often worn by individuals to add to the whimsy and “aesthetic” they’re going for. The “bindi” is a colored dot or series of dots — oftentimes a sticker in modern times for convenience — worn by people in the Indian subcontinent in the middle of their foreheads. It has a religious significance and is said to retain energy and concentration.
Appreciating the Designs
Despite the controversy, South Asian fashion is, in fact for all. Most South Asian individuals are likely to be the first to praise your clothes and accessories from their culture — so long as they are seen for what they are. Trends are going to inevitably be followed and maybe such popularization is for the better once actually given recognition for where it comes from. So, if not the generally popular fast fashion clothing brands, where can you find clothes that support and uplift their origins?
Mirchi is a fashion brand that makes Indian-inspired clothing. Their clothes are “handcrafted by skilled artisans using traditional Indian embroidery and beading techniques passed down for generations.” Some other brands include Hemant and Nandita, holiCHIC and Kalki Fashion.
What are your thoughts on South Asian clothing? Let us know @VALLEYmag on Instagram or X (formerly Twitter)!
