Although last year’s Milan fashion week was made up of mostly virtual events, this week’s events were business as usual: press and buyers descended upon the Italian fashion capital, and brands, designers, models and fashion fans enjoyed viewing this season’s newest collection at in-person events.
Here’s a breakdown of some of VALLEY’s favorite moments from the week.
With two runway shows held simultaneously at Fondazione Prada in Milan and Bund 1, Shanghai, the Italian luxury fashion house Prada ushered in a new age of fashion week events. During the synchronized event, Creative Directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons offered their views of clothing in which the structure of the garment “considered ideas of seduction and of the expression of sexuality.” Screens at similarly constructed sets in Milan and Shanghai served as a visual portal, moving viewers between locations— an enticing display of digital resources that showed Prada’s cross-continental permeation.
Among the collection’s highlights were knitwear enhanced with embedded breastplates, oversized blazers that clung to the shoulders, short dresses with casual trains and new-age mini skirts — all of which reflected the “seduction through reduction” theme that Prada’s creative directors described. You can explore the collection here.
While Gucci stepped away from the Milan fashion show schedule, they still made an appearance Saturday, when they took over Pizza Sempione to create a real-life replica of their new online concept store called Vault. Billed as a “time machine, an archive, a library, a laboratory and a meeting place,” Vault will release a selection of vintage and new pieces at various intervals throughout the year. The physical exhibition in Milan featured vintage styles among neon walls, as well as an old-school computer that displayed the Vault website. You can visit the Vault website here.
For this season, Artistic Director Kim Jones embraced optimistic hues and disco-ready silhouettes from the 1970s. The showcase featured glamorous, statement-making coats and feminine silk separates adorned with a hand-sketched Fendi emblem, all inspired by fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez, a friend of the late Karl Lagerfeld. Floral themes from Lopez’s designs were transformed into fashionable hair accessories, while Fendi’s iconic handbags were reimagined with graphic artwork.
Creative Director Donatella Versace’s inspiration for the collection was silk foulard — scarves or lightweight pieces of fabric — which she iterated into something “no longer fluid or dreamy,” but “provocative, sexy and wound tight.” The collection ranged from 90s-inspired handkerchief tops and latex sheaths to the return of the safety pin — a Versace signature — in a palette ranging from acid limes and shimmering disco pinks to glossy black.
With a lineup of Gen Z celebrities, like Dua Lipa and Lourdes Leon, as well as veteran runway models like Naomi Campbell and Gigi Hadid donning the silken shirting, pants, handbags and earrings, Versace’s colorful collection reached a broad audience.
Which fashion house do you think held the best show? Tweet us, @VALLEYmag, and let us know!